Men's style design in the design and production process of pants
There are many names for men's pants, which can be divided into four types based on their shape: tube pants, flared pants, tapered pants, and loose pants. There are various designs and functions of pants, and there are also various ways to wear them. There are many types of side opening bags and back opening bags. The design of the front panel of the pants also varies depending on the purpose of wearing, such as the presence and amount of pleats. The design of the cuffs usually includes two types: flip hem and flat hem, but there are also special cuffs like horseshoe cuffs. Due to the diverse designs of pants, it is very important to match them with tops, etc. Usually single pleated trousers. Anyone can wear it regardless of age or occupation. General wool, cotton, linen, and synthetic fibers can be used.
Material usage: surface fabric 140cm width 150cm, 90cm width 250cm bag fabric 90cm width 80cm adhesive lining 90cm width 50cm.
The previous film. Start drawing from the previous film. Take 1/3 of the crotch circumference as the margin for circumference, and add 2cm-3cm to the H/4 ratio. On the transverse crotch line, measure the hip circumference by 4 equal parts and extend it to the left by 1/4 of the thickness (front door width). Take the crotch length from the midpoint of the cross crotch line and draw the ankle line. The crotch length of the knee line is 5cm upwards. The width of the ankle is 11cm on each side of the pants, symmetrical to the pant line.
In general, after inserting 0.5cm to 0.7cm inward from the waistline of the front center, the straight crotch curve is connected. However, in special cases, due to the calculation of obesity, the front straight crotch line still needs to deviate from the front center and then rise upwards. Take a waistline of W/4+3cm~4cm, draw an arc-shaped side seam line across the hip circumference line, extend the side seam line upward by 0.5cm, and then redraw the waistline. The active pleats on the waist are sewn 3cm to 4cm from the pant line to the side, and a line is drawn towards the intersection of the knee line and the pant line. The side seam of the crotch is first connected to the ankle and the transverse crotch line, and then curved inward by 1cm on the knee line. Take the same width from the knee line on the side seam to the front and draw the crotch line.
The back image is based on the front image for drawing. Insert 1cm inward from the back center on the horizontal line, and insert a "●" size inward on the waistline, connecting these two points and extending upwards by 3.5cm. The thickness of the rear panel (width of the rear door) is increased by 2.5cm compared to the front panel, and a rear vertical arc is drawn. Take a W/4 plus 2cm waist line to save weight, and draw the waist line again 0.5cm upwards. Expand the width of the knee line and ankle by 1cm on each side. Draw an arc downward along the "mouth" size of the side seam line passing through the waistline and hip circumference line. The crotch line falls 1cm from the transverse crotch line and connects to the ankle through the knee line.
Cutting points: Double fold the fabric and compare the yarn orientation. Cut the front and back pieces alternately. Directional and glossy fabrics should be cut in the same direction. If you flip your feet, be sure to leave enough folding space. The dotted line in the picture represents the cut after fitting and correction. The dimensions marked in parentheses are the size of the seam during formal production.
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